FormatDrop
Image Format

RAW

Camera RAW Image Format

RAW is not a single format — it's a category of formats. Every camera manufacturer has their own proprietary RAW format: Canon uses CR2/CR3, Nikon uses NEF, Sony uses ARW, Fujifilm uses RAF. What they all share: they contain the unprocessed data captured by the camera sensor, before any colour correction, sharpening, noise reduction, or compression is applied. RAW is the digital equivalent of a film negative.

What is RAW?

When a digital camera captures an image, the sensor records raw light data — millions of photodetectors measuring the intensity of light falling on them through a colour filter array (usually a Bayer pattern of red, green, and blue filters). In JPG mode, the camera's internal processor applies white balance, colour correction, sharpening, noise reduction, and JPEG compression instantly, then discards the raw data. In RAW mode, the camera saves the unprocessed sensor data along with the camera settings (as metadata), leaving all processing decisions to the photographer in post-production. RAW files are typically 20–40 MB each (vs. 3–8 MB for JPG from the same camera) because they contain significantly more data. They're usually 12-bit or 14-bit per colour channel (vs. 8-bit for JPG), giving access to a much wider dynamic range — particularly important for recovering highlight and shadow detail that would be irretrievably blown out or crushed in JPG. RAW files require specialised software to view and process: Adobe Lightroom, Capture One, DxO PhotoLab, and the free open-source RawTherapee and darktable are the main options. Windows can display RAW thumbnails with Microsoft's free RAW Image Extension from the Store. macOS can preview most RAW formats natively.

RAW pros and cons

Advantages

  • Maximum dynamic range — recover detail in shadows and highlights
  • Non-destructive editing — original data is never altered
  • Full white balance control in post (not baked in)
  • 14-bit colour depth vs. 8-bit for JPG
  • No in-camera compression artifacts
  • Can output to any other format at any quality level

Limitations

  • Very large files — 20–40 MB each vs. 3–8 MB for JPG
  • Cannot be viewed without specialised software
  • Each manufacturer's RAW format is proprietary (CR2, NEF, ARW, RAF etc.)
  • Requires post-processing time before images are usable
  • Software support lags behind new camera releases
  • Not suitable for in-camera JPG review or sharing

When should you convert RAW files?

Convert RAW to JPG for sharing, posting, or archiving finished photos. Convert RAW to TIFF for professional printing or when handing off to retouchers who need maximum quality. Convert RAW to PNG if you need lossless output with better software support than TIFF. Always keep the original RAW as an archive — once converted to JPG, the dynamic range and editing flexibility of the RAW are gone forever. Do NOT convert JPG to RAW — this is impossible; you can only wrap a JPG in a RAW container, which doesn't recover any lost data.

Convert RAW files

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All FormatDrop conversions run entirely in your browser — no file upload, no server processing. Your files stay on your device.

RAW FAQ

What program opens RAW files?
Adobe Lightroom (industry standard, subscription), Capture One (professional, one-time or subscription), DxO PhotoLab (excellent noise reduction), RawTherapee (free, open-source), darktable (free, open-source, Linux/Mac/Windows). On Windows: install the free 'Raw Image Extension' from Microsoft Store to see RAW thumbnails in File Explorer. On Mac: Photos, Preview, and Image Capture handle most RAW formats natively.
What's the difference between ARW, CR2, CR3, NEF, and RAF?
These are all proprietary RAW formats from different camera manufacturers: ARW = Sony, CR2/CR3 = Canon (CR3 is newer), NEF = Nikon, RAF = Fujifilm, ORF = Olympus/OM System, RW2 = Panasonic, DNG = Adobe's open RAW format (used by Leica, Hasselblad, and some others). Functionally they contain the same type of data — unprocessed sensor output — but with different data structures and metadata formats. Software must be specifically updated to support each new camera model's RAW files.
Should I shoot RAW or JPG?
RAW: if you have time to process photos in Lightroom or similar, want maximum editing flexibility, frequently shoot in challenging lighting (bright sun, deep shadows, mixed light), or are shooting anything important professionally. JPG: if you need images ready immediately with no editing, are shooting casual snapshots, are filling memory cards at sporting events and need more capacity, or are confident in your in-camera settings. Many photographers shoot RAW+JPG simultaneously: JPG for immediate preview/sharing, RAW for detailed editing later.
Does converting RAW to JPG lose quality?
Yes — the conversion from 14-bit RAW data to 8-bit JPG necessarily discards colour depth information, and JPG compression introduces minor artifacts. However, a properly processed RAW image exported to JPG at 90%+ quality is visually indistinguishable from the RAW in normal viewing. The quality that matters — the editing decisions you made — is fully preserved. What you lose is the ability to re-process the image differently in the future.

More formats

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